The magnificent madness of Bhutan's wild rhododendrons
IN FOCUS
Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator, Bhutan Himalaya Expeditions
With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day.
Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced!
Lola W., California
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Such was the transformative power of this annual explosion of color in our mountains that even my father, a stern man of few words, would become an excited child as the rhododendron season took hold. He made us wear our finest traditional clothes — colorful handwoven silk and brocade ghos and kiras — and with a twinkle in his eye, ushered us into his Jeep for a journey up the winding mountain roads.
I can still remember the feeling of that moment we'd reach that special spot – a small curve of compact dirt that offered a breathtaking view of the glittering snowcapped Himalayan peaks. My father would practically leap from the car, shooing us out with great excitement. My mother, my three sisters, and I followed him up the mountain path, our vibrant clothes matching the great overhanging blooms of the rhododendron trees that stood out against the deep mist-wrapped forests of ancient pine and fir.
Our destination was always the same – a majestic, ancient rhododendron tree that seemed to embrace us with its sprawling branches. As we gathered beneath its canopy, my father would set up his beloved 35mm Canon AV1 on its tripod. He'd meticulously frame the shot, ensuring the camera captured both our family and the sumptuous trumpets of rhododendron blooms.
With the timer set, he'd dash to join us, always finding time for a final touch – adjusting his forest green fedora to a jaunty angle or tossing a bright silk scarf around his neck, the camera's click freezing in time our family amid the explosion of color that heralded Bhutan's spring.
As I grew older, I realized that this "rhododendron madness" wasn't unique to my family. It was deeply ingrained in Bhutanese culture. I discovered that our kingdom boasts an incredible 46 wholly native species of rhododendrons, with 10 additional subspecies. These aren't the pruned ornamental bushes you might find in Western gardens. No, Bhutan's rhododendrons are wild, untamed giants, some reaching heights of over 65 feet!
From late March to the end of May, these magnificent rhododendrons transform our mountainsides into a painter's palette. Mute puffs of scarlet, pink, cream, gold, and white cascade down the slopes of the mighty Himalayas — a sight that has inspired poets*, driven Bhutanese archers to acts of seeming madness**, and even set off a botanical craze in 19th-century Europe***.
Now, as an adult, I understand why my father was so enraptured by these blooms. They represent more than just the changing of seasons – they embody the wild beauty of Bhutan itself. These days when I stumble on a particularly stunning grove of giant rhododendrons during a hike, I'm filled with the same awe that must have inspired the 19th-century British naturalist Frank Kingdon Ward****to describe them as "fiery curtains" and "incandescent lava."
Each spring, as the rhododendrons paint our mountains with their vibrant hues, I'm transported back to those early family outings in my father’s Jeep. I hear my father's excited voice, feel the soft silk of my gho, and see the ancient tree stretching its arms toward the Himalayan sky. These wild blooms, in all their untamed glory, are more than just flowers, they're a living, breathing piece of Bhutan's soul, a natural wonder that continues to captivate and inspire all who witness their magnificent madness each year during the stunning Bhutanese spring.
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*A Chinese poet of old, Cheng Yanxlong, is said to have compared the red flowers of the rhododendron to “blood dropped from the mouths of cuckoo birds.” Chinese folklore says that the cuckoo birds arrive first in spring, followed by the rhododendron blooms.
**As the rhododendron season nears, Bhutanese archers can be seen jumping back and forth in front of the target, abandoning all good sense to the winds, even as their opponents prepare to shoot. The archer raising his bow and taking aim cries out: “Ethometho sha rendo! Ngi da kari pho rendo!” which, translated, means “Just as it’s time for the rhododendrons to bloom, so it’s time for my arrows to find their mark!
***Joseph Hooker’s Rhododendrons of the Sikkim-Himalaya was published in 1849, setting off a wild craze among European botanists, gardeners and enthusiasts, causing a flurry of artists from the era to paint them in the florid and gushing styles in which they were being described in the literary prose of the time.
***Frank Kingdon Ward was also the first person to document the rare and elusive Himalayan Blue Poppy, Bhutan’s national flower. The quotes above appear in his book “Riddle of the Tsangpo Gorges: Retracing the Epic Journey of 1924-25 in South-East Tibet”; edited by Kenneth Cox, Antique Collectors Club Ltd., August 2001).
~ Karma Dorji is the author of Dreaming of Prayer Flags: Stories & Images from Bhutan, 2008
AS A YOUNG boy in Bhutan, I waited eagerly for the first signs of spring each year. Not because of the warmer weather or the longer days, but because of the magnificent spectacle that would unfold in the mountains above our capital – the wild rhododendron blooms.
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