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Rediscovering Bhutan’s Ancient Highway on the Trans Bhutan Trail

IN FOCUS

Karma Dorji, Travel Programs Coordinator

Together, the group working to fulfill the king’s vision rebuilt the ancient interconnected pathways leading through the country’s scenic mountains and valleys, constructed wooden bridges spanning roaring rivers, long forgotten trails descending into and climbing out of wild gorges, the tranquil muletracks entering and exiting deep primeval forests of pine and fir, and country walks passing through idyllic farms and villages that, even today, appear lost to time.

With thoughtful itineraries honed since 1999, we unveil the depths of Bhutan's happiness philosophy, the daily physical adventures through the beautiful Himalayan landscape complemented by the intimate and in-depth cultural experiences sensitively curated for you every day. 

Through the eyes of a select few informed leaders we saw the dilemmas of a culture: A hitherto sheltered nation discovering the arguments for and against remaining a cloistered society in this 21st Century. I loved the adventure, and I loved the discovery. Unlike anything else I have ever experienced!

Lola W., California 

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The Third King of Bhutan, His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, traveling on a section of the cross-country trail with his royal entourage. Circa 1950s.

Historically used by Bhutanese royalty, pilgrims, traders, and the legendary fleet-footed messengers and runners known as Boe Lungi Garp, a name which literally means “windlike men of the royal court,” the ancient pathways fell into ruin with the advent of modern roads in the 1960s.

The trail was built during the pandemic by royal command of Bhutan’s current king, His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. The work was carried out by a team of government and private engineers and contractors, tourism industry workers temporarily unemployed due to the pandemic, and Bhutan’s national volunteer corps, the orange-garbed Desuungs or ‘The Guardians of Peace.’


A Journey Through Time and Space


Traversing the trail is like stepping back in time. It winds through lush valleys, dense forests, and high mountain passes connecting remote villages, ancient dzongs or monastery-fortresses and sacred sites. Hikers encounter a diverse array of landscapes, from cloud-choked mountain passes to Jurassic-looking virgin forests draped in old man’s beard lichen – a testament to Bhutan’s ultra-pure air.

Mossy trees with old-man's beard lichens on the Trans Bhutan Trail.

Sections of the Trail


The trail is has 28 sections, allowing travelers to choose their adventure – whether it’s a grueling month-long through-hike, a series of day hikes with overnights at local lodges ranging from the classic to the luxurious or, most popular, the best sections of the trail combined with a themed cultural journey.


Some of our favorite sections of the trail include:


  • The traditional “farmer’s harvest” route from Haa to Paro. Used since ancient times by yak herders and barley farmers from Haa who hiked over the 11,450-foot Kalela pass to fulfill their special kinship duties of assisting Paro Valley’s prosperous farmers, to whom they were often linked by marriage, in their annual red rice harvest. This is the western extremity of the trail which stretches all the way from Haa Valley in the very west of the country to Bhutan’s farthest eastern district of Trashigang. This is a steep and challenging all-day hike that takes you from the highland farms of Haa to the apple orchards that skirts Paro's edges. The highest point is the open yak meadow at Kaleyla where the steeply winding forest trail from Haa caps out before droping precipitously  into Paro Valley. This section provides a spectacular opportunity to stay at a beautifully restored and maintained former governor’s mansion in Haa, run by the governor's present-day descendent, plus a chance to go hot-tubbing au naturelle in the traditional Bhutanese style, in-between dips in an icy glacial stream.


  • The charming country section of the trail running through Paro's scenic villages and its mustard-golden fields. Expect to see rooftops spread over with drying red chilies, and tidy farmhouses that look like Swiss chalets as you wind through terraced fields of Bhutan’s famous red rice.


  • The hike up from Paro Valley to the 12,000-foot ridgeline where the historic Jele Dzong sits, a tiny gem on a mountaintop, with distant views of Bhutan's snowy peaks. End this section with a steep descent through forests of pine, fir and birch to the small village of Tshaluna. 


  • The atmospheric trail to Lungchutse through primeval giant rhododendrons with hanging moss and lichen, leading to a mountaintop shrine with 360-degree views, in fair weather, of the glittering Eastern Himalayan range.


  • The Divine Madman Trail near Punakha, where hikers can learn about the legendary exploits of Drukpa Kunley, Bhutan's revered and prankster saint, and stay at a lovely old country manor belonging to the extended family of a former Bhutanese Prime Minister.


  • The Loma Longtey Trek from the high glacial valley of Gangtey-Phobjikha to Pelela Pass, gateway to Central Bhutan.


  • The day hike from Chendebji, marked by a gorgeous Himalayan stupa with mesmerizing “Buddha eyes” to Tangsibji, a storied village famed for its rice and the great physical strength of its inhabitants. This village has consistently produced the winners for several years in the nationally televised Bhutanese Nyagoe or "strongman" contest.


  • The dramatic descent down a steep and densely forested gorge cut by a roaring river leading across a beautiful traditional wooden cantilever bridge to the historic Trongsa Dzong, the massive fortress with steps worn smooth by centuries of travelers.


  • The descent down the mist wrapped high pass of Yotongla to Bumthang, Bhutan’s spiritual heartland, weaving back and forth along the course of a wildly tumbling mountain stream.


  • The royal trek from Bumthang’s regional center, Jakar, to the Tang Valley, stopping by an ancient temple believed to sit atop a subterreanean lake, and ending at a centuries-old royal manor and museum in the heart of Bhutan’s sacred heartland.


  • The half-day retun trek from the Tang Valley that goes over a scenic pass and winds through tall pine forests to end up along the eastern banks of Bumthang’s Chamkharchhu River, with gorgeous views of the valley dominated by its monastery fortress, the aptly named “Castle of the White Crane.”

 

Every section of the trail provides opportunities to savor the breathtaking beauty of Bhutan, such as this valley view from the trail in central Bhutan.

Cultural Immersion and Community Connection


Visitors can also choose to stay in traditional farmhouses, which may be low on amenities but are high on authentic experiences, offering opportunities to share meals and stories with local families, and gain hard-won insights into Bhutan’s unique folkways and its deep-rooted Buddhist culture. The trail also passes through communities and villages where travelers are likely to meet elderly residents who remember using the trail in their youth, providing a tangible link to the kingdom’s historical past.


The Trans Bhutan Trail also passes through many time-forgotten villages with farmhouses where the patterns of traditional life continue to flow uninterrupted by modernity.
Bhutan's national policy of Gross National Happiness puts the spotlight on community health, sustainability and the spiritual well-being of its people.

Sustainable Tourism in Action


The restoration of the Trans Bhutan Trail is more than just a tourism initiative; it’s a social enterprise aimed at preserving Bhutan’s cultural heritage and supporting local communities. All profits from trail-related activities are reinvested into the trail and the communities along it, ensuring that tourism benefits those who call this region home. By walking the trail, visitors can contribute directly to the well-being of local people and the preservation of Bhutan’s unique culture and environment.

A Path to Understanding


The Trans Bhutan Trail offers more than a hiking experience; it’s a journey into the heart of Bhutan’s culture, history, and natural beauty. As you walk in the footsteps of pilgrims and traders from centuries past, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for this unique kingdom and its people.


In the words of one traveler, “My experience was far richer for the people I met, the homes I was welcomed into for lunch or to sleep, and the villages and towns we walked through”. The Trans Bhutan Trail is not just a path through a country; it’s a route to understanding a way of life that has endured for centuries and continues to thrive amid the challenges of the modern world.

BHUTAN LAUNCHED A brand new cross-country trek for adventure travelers in 2022, an old ancestral trail that the kingdom’s then tourism director Dorji Dradhul likened to a “…living, walking museum…filled with stories, myths and legends.”

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